(Notes from talk given by Sue Thompson at August 2017 meeting.)[Best_Wordpress_Gallery id=”15″ gal_title=”Daffs17″]
Classification of Daffodil
Sue spent some time discussing and demonstrating how to distinguish the various divisions of daffodils.
Sue particularly mentioned Div X – bulbicodium as a very early flowering variety which likes a lot of baking in the sun with little water. However as with all bulbs they should be fed after flowering. She also commented that with advances in breeding we should soon have daffodils from autumn until November.
Propagation, feed, soil
Sue mentioned that daffs are easy to propagate from seed and grow well in the ground or in pots. The late Ian Dyson used to say about potted daffodils “that if it’s not raining an inch a week the daffodil pots will need water”. Nevertheless don’t let them get too wet and keep the pots cool and dry in the summer.
Bulbs should fed shortly after flowering has finished because the bulbs make their flowers for next year within the first 8 weeks. If the bulbs haven’t flowered this year they should be fed in any event. Brunnings bulb food was recommended but it’s not available in Victoria. Brunnings suggested Multicrop’s B-Green is an option. Avoid nitrogen fertilisers and focus on 2 parts phosphorus and 1 part potash. Remove the leaves 8 weeks after flowering.
Daffodils prefer a ph of around 6
Sue mentioned that Hancocks bought Ian Dyson’s paddock of daffodils so they have reliable and varied bulbs. She also mentioned Glenbrook bulb farm in Tasmania and Kiera Bulbs in NSW.
Some varieties of daffodils displayed by Sue:
• Mirrar x Prodigous — old fashioned white
• Night Flight x White ideal — all white
• Jacksons x Sheelagh rowan — all white
• Wild Women x Habit — all yellow really strong and flower
• Cameo Marie— poeticus variety — white petals with tiny dark orange cup
• Mirrar x Phelson Red x Jolly Good — yellow with orange trumpet really tall stem